Bokobá’s take on ‘modern Mexican’ cuisine at its best when it sticks close to tradition

The notion of “modern Mexican” cuisine might strike terror in the hearts of those who fear the profaning of their traditional enchiladas and guisados with tony touches such as airy foams and artfully tweezered microgreen garnishes. To be sure, foam makes a menu appearance at Bokobá, the newly opened restaurant and bar that took over the former Chela’s location on North St. Mary’s Street and jettisoned pretty much everything but the layout.